Spring steelheader "swinging" tube flies on the upper Grand River, OH
(This is the first of a series of articles by John Nagy on fly fishing "Steelhead Alley" tributary streams and rivers. Future articles will feature Elk Creek, PA and Cattaraugus Creek, NY)
An ancient and rugged river that is largely untouched by man
The Grand River in
northeast Ohio can arguably be called the grandest of all the Ohio
Lake Erie steelhead tributary streams. More of a brawling river than
a stream (especially after run-off episodes), it drains a 712 square
mile watershed that is 98 miles in length, through 4 Ohio counties,
including 34 miles of fishable steelhead water from the Harpersfield
Dam to it’s concourse with Lake Erie at Fairport Harbor, Ohio.
A River
from the Past
Prior to the last ice
age, the Grand River flowed directly north into Lake Erie but
gradually became twisted from the southerly glacial movement of the
Wisconsinan glacier some 14,000 years ago and developed a more
westerly travel before draining north into Lake Erie.
Below the Harpersfield dam the Grand has wild river status for 23 miles to the railroad bridge south of Painesville. This area, know as the Grand River gorge, has a much steeper gradient and runs colder, cutting through ancient shale and siltstone beds forming high cliff banks, steep valleys and at times rather difficult access. Densely forested with northern hardwoods and hemlocks in most areas, it is truly wild in nature with practically no development along its banks. At Painesville the river slows and flows north through an urban environment past long gone Indian fishing village sites on its way to Lake Erie.
Designated
both wild and scenic river status by the state of Ohio in 1974, the
Grand is basically free flowing for most of its length. The upper
Grand or lowlands section (above the Harpersfield Dam which prevents
most migratory fish movement) has scenic river status and encompasses
33 miles of slow moving water. This upper section is surrounded by a
broad flood plain which was formed by an ancient glacial lake. It
includes wetlands, swamp forests as well as some agricultural areas.
Due
to the slow moving nature of the river here it contains a tremendous
amount of silt and mud in its river bottom. In combination with the
exposed shale banks of the lower Grand, this has a tremendous impact
on the Grand’s clarity (or lack of) after run-off from rainfall or
snow melt.Below the Harpersfield dam the Grand has wild river status for 23 miles to the railroad bridge south of Painesville. This area, know as the Grand River gorge, has a much steeper gradient and runs colder, cutting through ancient shale and siltstone beds forming high cliff banks, steep valleys and at times rather difficult access. Densely forested with northern hardwoods and hemlocks in most areas, it is truly wild in nature with practically no development along its banks. At Painesville the river slows and flows north through an urban environment past long gone Indian fishing village sites on its way to Lake Erie.
The Steelhead of the Grand
Like
most Ohio Lake Erie tributaries it is primarily a warm water fishery
during the late spring, summer months (with great smallmouth and even
muskie fishing opportunities) but quickly cools off in the shorter
days of September as night time temperatures drop and fall rains
occur.
The
combination of lower lakeshore temperatures (68 degrees F seems to
stage good numbers of prespawn steelhead along the lakeshore),
shorter photo periods and good fall run-off initiate’s steelhead
migratory movements up the Grand in early fall. By early May it
starts to warm up again causing any remaining postspawn steelhead to
drop down to the lower river and eventually into the lake.
The steelhead of the
Grand are a mixed bag including a large number of stray fish from
Pennsylvania (a “naturalized” Pennsylvania strain which are
primarily fall/winter runners) and a significant number of late
winter/early spring run steelhead based on the Ohio Department of
Wildlife’s direct stocking program of Little Manistee strain
steelhead. Also a very small number of stray fish from Michigan and
New York as well as some wild fish from the Ontario side of Lake Erie
trickle in every season.
According
to Kevin Kayle, Aquatic Biology Supervisor for the ODW at the
Fairport Fisheries Research Station there is a small percentage of
returning steelhead to the Grand based on natural reproduction but no
formal data to confirm it. He bases this on past summer sampling of
numerous feeder streams to the Grand which revealed decent
populations of juvenile steelhead in the 3-5 inch range. These
feeders have ideal habitat, water quality and temperatures for both
adult spawning and juvenile rearing.
In
1975 the ODW stocked a domesticated rainbow trout known as the London
strain (named after Ohio’s London fish hatchery) into many of their
steelhead tributaries including the Grand. It was primarily developed
for its superior egg survival and growth rates in the hatchery and
ability to survive in slightly warmer waters than those inhabited by
a typical rainbow trout. This seemed to be a good fit not only for
its inland trout streams but also its Lake Erie tributaries which are
the southern most of the Great Lakes.
The
tributary stockings of the London (a fall runner) resulted in
marginal returns from Lake Erie in subsequent years. Growth rates
were not impressive either. After a 23 year stocking effort the ODW
decided to switch gears in 1989 and try the later running Little
Manistee strain steelhead which they obtained from the Michigan
Department of Natural Resources in exchange for catfish. They
received them in the form of juvenile fingerlings which the ODW later
raised to 1 year-old smolts in the 6-8 inch size in their hatchery
system. They were initially stocked in Conneaut Creek in the spring
of 1989 and eventually the Grand, Chagrin and Rocky Rivers in 1995.
John Nagy with a Grand River spring steelhead that took a Nagy Black n' Blue Stonefly Nymph on a dead-drift using the "Right Angle Floating IndicatorTechnique"
The
ODW hit pay dirt and found the Little Manistee strain superior in
growth, return rates (3.5 to 1) and length of run versus their
hatchery raised London strain fish. They now exclusively stock Little
Manistee steelhead into the Grand River as well as the Rocky River,
Chagrin River, Conneaut Creek, Vermillion River and Ashtabula River. In 2018 approximately 478,408 Little Manistee smolts were stocked into Ohio's steelhead tributaries with 90,076 planted in the
Grand River.
According
to Kevin Kayle most Little Manistees return after three summers in
the lake (averaging 26-28 inches and 5-8 lbs.) but good numbers of
two and four summer fish also occur. Five summer fish are not as
common but are most likely 30-31 inches and over 10 pounds.
Techniques,
Equipment and Flies
Whether
you bottom-bounce, indicator fish or swing flies on the Grand is best
determined by the prevailing run-off conditions from rainfall or snow
melt as well as water temperatures and time of the year you are
fishing.
The
Grand River, like most Lake Erie tributaries, normally has a low base
flow and is heavily dependent on run-off from rainfall or snow melt
to get it up to fishable levels (wadable but with some clarity) and
help move steelhead up it from Lake Erie. The Grand really never
clears up like many other Lake Erie tributaries and can maintain a
tea colored cast even when low. Successful steelheaders learn to
exploit this characteristic of the Grand (especially when it is
running at a good flow and silty) by using bigger, brighter flies as
well as heavier tippet. Grand River steelhead have a real sense of
security and comfort in stained flows and are rather cooperative fly
takers as long as you can get their attention.
The
problem with the Grand is that too much run-off over a period of days
or weeks can result in unfishable conditions (above 400 cfs). It
typically takes about a week or more for it to reach fishable levels
(250-350 cfs are ideal for wading and fly fishing) after an average run-off
episode but can drop to low conditions a few days later if more
run-off does not occur. Too much run-off can keep it “blown” to
high and muddy levels for weeks at a time.
When
the main river becomes unfishable the Grand’s feeders like Mill,
Talcott, Paine, Big and Kellog Creeks can be a saving grace with a egood runs of steelhead not unusual. The downside is possible
congested fishing due to the small confines of these streams.
It is to be noted that the Grand (even at fishable levels) can have a persistent stained or even muddy cast. This is usually a result of prolonged periods of high water (weeks/even months) which produces a tremendous amount of silt in the Grand River watershed. Because of the seemingly perpetual off-color nature of the Grand many locals have affectionately dubbed it "the mud hole".
It is to be noted that the Grand (even at fishable levels) can have a persistent stained or even muddy cast. This is usually a result of prolonged periods of high water (weeks/even months) which produces a tremendous amount of silt in the Grand River watershed. Because of the seemingly perpetual off-color nature of the Grand many locals have affectionately dubbed it "the mud hole".
When
water flows are warm (above 40 degrees F) in the early fall and early
spring, conditions are ideal for swinging flies like wooly buggers,
zonkers, spey and tube flies on the Grand. The Grand has a good
number of long and fairly broad pools and runs that have relatively
level bottoms of broken shale and rocks. These areas are great for
the traditional down-and-across technique to active, hard hitting
steelhead that are holding tight along current seams and in pool
tail-outs.
Fast action, single-handed fly rods in the 9 1/2 to 10 foot range in 7 to 8 weight line weights are ideal for handling the floating lines, sinking leaders, interchangeable sink tip lines or shooting heads that can be used on the swing depending on the water flows encountered. "Switch Rods" and longer spey or two-handed fly rods are also very effective for swinging flies on the Grand especially during higher flows.
Fast action, single-handed fly rods in the 9 1/2 to 10 foot range in 7 to 8 weight line weights are ideal for handling the floating lines, sinking leaders, interchangeable sink tip lines or shooting heads that can be used on the swing depending on the water flows encountered. "Switch Rods" and longer spey or two-handed fly rods are also very effective for swinging flies on the Grand especially during higher flows.
As
water temperatures start to cool down in late October, early November
(below 45 degrees) and eventually hover in the 30’s by December,
dead-drifting egg patterns, bead-head nymphs and soft hackles
naturally along the stream bottom to more lethargic, bottom hugging
steelhead becomes the mainstay.
At
fishable levels this is best accomplished on the Grand by wading into
close proximity to steelhead lies (easily done at fishable flows) and
“high-stick” nymphing by either bottom-bouncing (without a
floating indicator) or indicator fishing using the "Right Angle Floating Indicator Technique". Ideal steelhead resting
areas include current seams found in moderate to fast runs and along
shale ledges and also current breaks located behind boulders, in pool
tail-outs and streambed depressions.
The
high-stick rod position, in combination with long fly rods (9 to 12
foot), long leaders and floating lines, maximizes fly line and leader
control as well as minimizes floating fly line contact with the water
which can interfere with drag-free drifts. Moderate to medium-fast
action fly rods can also help buffer tippets from surging and running
steelhead. Switch Rods and smaller two-handed spey rods can act as great “cross-over”
rods for both nymphing and swinging techniques.
Because
the Grand seems to always have a good stain to it steelhead are not
very fussy and relatively easy to catch when it has fishable flows.
The challenge is to determine where the steelhead lies or resting
areas are. A good way to do this is to read the surface texture of
the water which can show current seams and current breaks that reveal
steelhead holding areas below (polarized sunglasses are helpful for
this). In higher flows, when steelhead are spread out pretty good,
this can be difficult to do on the Grand since the riffles, runs and
pools seem to blend together making distinctions between these areas
very subtle.
When
dead-drifting flies on the Grand use large, bright egg patterns
(sizes #12- #8) in tandem with a bead-head nymph or wooly bugger or
streamer to get a steelhead’s attention quickly in stained water.
If he doesn’t take the egg pattern (top fly) on the drift he
usually will take the more naturally colored pattern nearby,
especially if they kept close together on the leader. Adding some
flash to the nymph, bugger or streamer can also help steelhead pick
them out in heavy stain. Tippet sizes are usually not critical due
to the stained water with 3X to 1X the norm.
The
Grand has a fair base of aquatic insects including a large, uncased
green caddis larvae (size #12) and golden stoneflies in sizes #14-#8.
Crayfish and sculpins can also be found in the river bottom with
imitations effective for both steelhead and smallmouth.
When
steelhead on the Grand start spawning (usually starting in late
February) opportunities exist for sight fishing on the gravel. Many
steelheaders frown at this activity but since natural reproduction is
relatively a small percentage of returning steelhead in the Grand it
doesn’t have much of an impact on future runs. A good strategy is
to swing flies to aggressive males on the beds (keeping the fly in
front of the fish) since catching spawning the spawning female will
quickly scatter the group of males jousting for spawning rights with
the female. Also dead-drifting egg patterns and nymphs to "egg eating" pre-spawn and post-spawn steelhead (below the spawning beds) is a
deadly technique.
The
Seasons
In
September, steelhead will begin to run the lower reaches of the Grand
particularly stray, fall running fish from Pennsylvania. A dry fall
can keep steelhead low on the river but good numbers of fish can
reach the Harpersfield Dam by December if consistent fall run-off
occurs. Fall fishing can be good as long as the river does not blow
out at which point it usually takes a week or more to clear.
Winter
fishing on the Grand can be greatly affected by excess snow melt and
rain which can again blow the river out for extended periods of time.
Also, total freeze-up of the river flow in January and February is
not unheard of. Another scenario is moderate winter periods with very
little snow and ice in the watershed. The result can mean fishable
water but with morning skim ice and slush flows (that can burn off by
mid-morning) the norm.
Early
March usually brings ice-out on Lake Erie and a gradual thaw of the
Lake Erie tributaries including the Grand. By late March, the peak of
the Little Manistee run is approaching with April and early May the
best times for this short but much anticipated run. The gorge area of
the Grand usually will hold good numbers of steelhead by April.
The
best scenario for a good spring run is to have a solid freeze of the
Grand in January and February with an early March thaw and a
moderately wet, cold spring. The winter freeze prevents early Little
Manistee arrivals from the lake, delays any early spawning activity
in the Grand itself for any steelhead “wintering over” and allows
for an extended spring season due to the cold temperatures and
moderate run-off conditions.
The
opposite of this is an overly moderate winter (which seems to be the norm in recent years) with no freeze of the
lake shore or river, an excessive run-off from rain and snow melt and
a mild early spring. The result is a watered down spring run of
Little Manistees that have mostly spawned out by April and are
leaving the river early due to excessive water temperatures.
April
and May can bring a mixed bag of fish to be caught on the Grand
including pre-spawn “chromers”, spawners, spawned out fish and
hungry “drop-down” steelhead which start to leave the river in
late April and early May as water temperatures get into the upper
50’s and 60’s. Smallmouth bass also start running the lower river
from Lake Erie in April as an added bonus to fly fisherman.
Access
The
Grand River has been kept relatively untouched to development due to
its ruggedness and remoteness which can make it a challenge for the
steelheader. The good news is that public access is excellent on the
Grand and its feeders with several Lake Metroparks located in the
gorge area below Harpersfield (see map) that have parking and rest
room facilities. By accessing these parks the steelheader can reach,
by hiking, many remote areas on the Grand and fish in relative
solitude.
Another
approach is to float the Grand in canoes or pontoon boats. With canoe
access available at the Ashtabula County Park at the Harpersfield Dam
and most of the lower Lake Metroparks a number of float trips of
various lengths can be planned. In the Painesville area there exists
some urban style fishing at the Painesville City Park and the popular
“Uniroyal” hole area.
The
Grand River is certainly a challenge for the steelhead fly fisherman
not only for its ruggedness but for the stubbornness of its usual
high and off-colored flows. But with some careful weather and run-off
monitoring the patient steelheader can be rewarded with indeed a
grand steelhead experience on this ancient river.
More detailed information on fly fishing the tributary streams and rivers of the Lake Erie watershed (including swinging presentations and the Right Angle Floating Indicator Technique) can be found in John Nagy's classic book "Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead". John Nagy's "Steelheader's Journal" makes a great companion book to the Steelhead Guide. Both are available for purchase in the right menu bar.
More detailed information on fly fishing the tributary streams and rivers of the Lake Erie watershed (including swinging presentations and the Right Angle Floating Indicator Technique) can be found in John Nagy's classic book "Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead". John Nagy's "Steelheader's Journal" makes a great companion book to the Steelhead Guide. Both are available for purchase in the right menu bar.
