Thursday, March 11, 2010

Spring Steelies by John Nagy

Blue bells and spring steelhead fishing on an Ohio steelhead tributary

Fly fishing the Lake Erie tributary streams in the spring is in a lot of ways a paradox of the winter steelhead season. To begin with, stream temperatures are pushed from the frigid low 30’s into the 40 degree F plus range. This causes sluggish steelhead already in the streams to become more active and aggressive.

Rising air temperatures and spring rains melt winter snow cover and stream ice resulting in higher flows. This, in turn, brings fresh runs of steelhead in from Lake Erie. Steelhead begin moving from their winter locations (deep, slow moving pools and eddies) to shallow gravel beds fulfilling their strong spawning urges. This usually occurs in late February and continues through April. Scientists have determined that this spawning behavior is triggered by a combination of two factors: stream temperatures (40 degrees F or above) and increasing "photo periods" or periods of light versus dark.

Locating spawning areas can result in some fantastic (and controversial) steelhead fly fishing during this time of the year. This is not only true for spawning steelhead on their beds but also pre-spawn fish located nearby and spawned out steelies (drop-back fish) heading back to the lake.

Ideal spawning areas are basically riffles, which have large-size diameter gravel, are 1-4 feet deep, and have darker color bottoms. Next to these areas are usually deeper runs, pockets, or pools which harbor pre-spawn and post spawn fish, as well as fish that have been spooked off their beds.

Actual spawning involves a female steelhead moving into a spawning area and digging out a redd. She will do this by turning on her side and making powerful upsweeps of her tail in the gravel. The current washes away loose gravel until a saucer shaped hole has formed which will hold her eggs. Males will be attracted by this activity and begin competing for spawning rights, with the largest and most heavily kyped males winning out. They will use their superior power and large kypes (which are grown for this purpose) to drive inferior males from the redd. After the female drops her eggs, about 20 % of what she is carrying, the dominant male will fertilize them (sometimes one, or possible two, sub-dominant male will also participate), and the female moves immediately upstream to begin making another redd. The displaced gravel from this redd covers the previously fertilized eggs downstream. The female will continue this process until she is spawned out.

When you are fly fishing a spawning bed there are several things to keep in mind. If you don’t notice any spawning activity on the bed itself, blind fish adjacent deep-holding areas. As previously stated, these areas can hold steelies that are not in a spawning mode.

Fishing on the redds themselves has a simple strategy; fish for the males. They will be easy to distinguish from the females since they appear almost black while the females are bright silver. If you catch the female first, the males will quickly scatter. These aggressive males become very territorial and are not actually feeding, but will chase flies to dominate the redd.

Before fishing, position yourself slightly upstream of the redd and cast your fly so it reaches stream bottom as it drifts through. Mend your line to maintain a dead-drift and keep a tight line so you are able to quickly set the hook. Try to visually follow your fly through the redd so that you target the males and react quickly to their takes.

More often than not you won’t be able to see spawning fish very well on the bed. This is usually the result of spring run-off, which causes high, turbid water, or a spawning bed with a dark bottom. The dead giveaway though is the female as she turns on her side; the tail shakes giving flashes of silver, or gold in muddy water. Wearing polarized sunglasses on bright days is a tremendous help in seeing these flashes. Mentally mark this spot in the stream and fish to areas just downstream where the males will be holding.

Effective fly patterns for spring steelhead include yellow, white, and black Wooly Buggers, bright egg patterns (glo-balls, sucker spawns, scrambled eggs and blood dots), various streamer patterns like the Lake Erie Emerald Shiner and Clouser Minnow, Wooly Buggers, Spring Wigglers and bead-head nymphs (prince’s, black stoneflies and green caddis larvae).

Fly rods in the 9 to 10 foot range with medium to medium-fast actions are ideal for fishing egg patterns, nymphs as well as wooly buggers and streamers. Longer 10 ½ foot fly rods (custom made from "noodle" spinning blanks) provide superior line and leader control when trying to achieve drag-free drifts. They also allow for big fish playing capabilities on light tippets due to their soft actions and shock absorbing abilities.

A floating fly line, like the Wulff Triangle Taper, works well on the spawning beds particularly when fly casting at a relatively short distance (30 ft. or less). They have the delicacy of a double taper at short distances, which makes line mending rather easy, and at the same time provide the power of a weight forward to turn over split shot and floating indicators. This is due to their unique triangle taper configuration, which concentrates the bulk of the heavy part of the taper (which can interfere with drag-free drifts) away from the butt of the leader.

Leaders should be kept relatively short (9-10 feet) when fishing the beds. This allows for close in casting in relatively shallow water. In adjacent runs and pools (which are deeper) longer leaders up to 12 to 14 feet work better especially when using a floating indicator. Adding a florescent red section of Sunset Amnesia monofilament to the butt section of the leader is a good way to build a strike indicator into your leader especially when you are not using a float.

Fly fishing steelhead spawning beds seems to have its proponents and detractors. In the Pacific Northwest this practice is strongly discouraged on rivers with wild steelhead feeling it is very detrimental to successful spawning. On the other hand Michigan steelheaders seem to have no problem with fishing on the beds even though 50 % of their fish are known to be naturally reproduced.

The American tributaries of Lake Erie produce a very small number of naturally reproduced steelhead (the runs are primarily based on hatchery raised steelhead smolts and fingerlings) so fishing the beds does not have much of an impact on future steelhead runs. One exception is Cattaraugus Creek in New York which has been documented with 25% naturally reproduced steelhead. Here it is not recommended to fish the beds in the spring to protect a developing wild steelhead fishery (several feeders to Cattaraugus Creek are actually closed to fishing in the spring inorder protect wild steelhead natural reproduction).

The Canadian tributaries of Lake Erie (Ontario Province) are almost entirely based on naturally reproduced steelhead runs with most tributaries closed in the winter and early spring to fishing.

If you do choose to fish spawning beds in the spring (where legal), land and release steelhead quickly, keep fish in water at all times, keep handling to a minimum and be sure not to wade on known spawning gravel.

Many steelheader's who frown on fishing steelhead spawning beds, prefer to target only pre-spawn, post-spawn and drop-back steelhead in order to protect both established and developing wild steelhead fisheries.
More detailed information on spring steelhead fishing can be found in John Nagy’s book “Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead”.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Leaders for Steelhead by John Nagy

Leaders and tippet material are all part of the well equipped steelheaders arsenal

Of all the equipment considerations that the Great Lakes steelheader makes probably the most overlooked are leaders and tippet material.
But without a proper leader and tippet you really can’t perform the technique being used correctly, deliver the fly effectively to the steelhead and play and land a steelhead quickly to minimize any stress or harm to the fish


Short-Line Nymphing


Leaders used for “short-line” nymphing methods, where you are fishing in close proximity to steelhead lies and using “high-stick” rod positioning, should have stiff butt and mid-sections (about 60 to 75% of the overall leader length) to turn over split-shot, indicators and weighted flies.

The taper design, whether you custom make it yourself or buy one off the shelf, need not be intricate as long as good power is maintained for turnover. The tippet section is ideally a softer material (3X-5X) allowing for drag-free presentations along the stream bottom.

Short-line nymphing methods can be categorized as either “bottom- bouncing” (without a floating indicator) and the “right-angle” floating indicator technique.

Bottom-bouncing steelhead egg patterns, bead-head nymphs, soft hackles, small streamers and wooly buggers works well in shallow, faster flows like pool heads, runs and pocket water. A good rule of thumb when bottom-bouncing is to use a leader (including the tippet) roughly the length of your fly rod. Since most steelhead fly rods are in the 9 to 10 foot range you’re talking about a similar size leader.

This leader length allows for easier fly line and leader control when assuming the high-stick rod position during the drift. There is just enough fly line extending off the rod tip to balance the weight of the split-shot and fly (which may be weighted) at the end of the leader. The result is a relatively tight fly line that helps the fly fisherman feel the stream bottom and more importantly detect any steelhead strikes.

Too long of a leader makes fly line and leader control more difficult when short-lining due to mostly monofilament leader extending off rod tip resulting in a slack or loose leader and a loss of strike detection and bottom feel. The opposite of this scenario is using too short of a leader (all fly line off rod tip) resulting in excess fly line getting into the water which can interfere with drag-free drifts.

Longer fly rods are ideal for high-stick nymphing since they enable the steelheader to effectively use longer leaders. These long leaders can “cut” through the water column easily (with minimal fly line interference) to achieve drag-free drifts.

Using a 25 or 20 lb. section of fluorescent red Sunset Amnesia (hard nylon running line) for the butt section of the leader works great as a built in strike indicator especially when bottom-bouncing. Keep in mind that going to a heavier leader butt size can reduce the ability of the leader to sink quickly through the water column and get the fly quickly to the fish. Lighter than that can cause poor turnover of the leader when casting especially when using shot or indicators.

The right-angle-floating-indicator technique is a deadly method for dead-drifting flies adjacent to stream structures such as drop-offs and shale ledges. This technique is most effectively done with a buoyant floating indicator and a leader that is longer (versus bottom-bouncing) since you are covering more distance due to the right angle formed in the leader. Using a continuous piece of tippet material at the end of the leader (same size and without any knots) allows for easy indicator adjustment along its entire length depending on the water depth.

For the rather shallow tributaries of Lake Erie a 3-5 foot, knotless tippet section is ideal for most water depths. In clear flows, it may be necessary to add a short section of lighter tippet (to the base tippet) to get hook-ups. Just make sure the knot connection location does not interfere with the floating indicator adjustment.

Fishing roughly the depth of the water in this method (indicator is set at water depth) requires a fair amount of adjustments depending on the water being fished but is a very precise way to present your fly to finicky/drag conscious steelhead, especially in colder flows. Fishing more than the depth of the water (1½ to 2 times or more) is more forgiving in terms of getting the fly on the bottom but it has inherent problems. Namely, possible loss of bottom contact and strike feel and accidental snagging of fish since the swirling fly and tippet in the current flow can easily “line” the fish.


Swinging Presentations


Leaders used for swinging flies with some sort of sinking system should be on the short side (2-5 ft.) with a simple taper design. The sinking system can be incorporated into the fly line or leader itself. There are numerous sinking systems (each with various sink rates or speeds and lengths) that you can use to get your fly down close to the bottom on the swing. These include: custom mini-tips made of Rio tungsten T14 shooting head material, tungsten coated sinking leaders, interchangeable sink tip lines and shooting heads systems.

The mini-tips (which are looped on the ends and easily connected into the leader) and sinking leaders are ideal for small to medium size tributaries that are running medium to low in flow and have tight holding areas. Sink tip lines and shooting heads (which are longer in length) are ideal for bigger rivers that have broad pools and runs and also faster, deeper flows. In general as flows become faster and deeper go to a faster sinking system to keep your fly down where the steelhead are most of the time (particularly in flows below 45 degrees F).

The tippet used on a sinking system can be kept heavy (1X-3X) since keeping the fly “swimming” on the swing is more important than a drag-free drift. Also a steelhead will normally never see the tippet on the swing, just the rear or side of the fly. In clearer flows, fluorocarbon tippet material may be helpful at times on the swing.

In warmer flows (above 50 degrees F) it is not unusual for a steelhead to “look up” to take a swinging fly or even a dry fly. In this case a slower sinking system or just a floating line and a longer leader (9 ft. or longer) will do the trick. This traditional swing presentation, just below or at the surface, was originally made popular with Atlantic salmon in the Canadian Provinces and is known as “greased-lining”.

(Note: refer to John Nagy’s Steelhead Guide book for custom steelhead leader formulas. Recommended manufactured or “off-the-shelf” steelhead leaders include the following. For short-line nymphing: Frog Hair’s Great Lakes Steelhead and “Hi-Vis” Transition Nymph Leaders, Rio’s Indicator and Steelhead/Salmon Leaders, Scientific Anglers Steelhead/Salmon Leader, Cortland’s Climax Nymph Leader and John Nagy’s custom-made “Hot Butt” Leader. For sub-surface swinging presentations: Rio’s VersiLeaders, Airflo’s Trout and Salmon Polyleaders.)
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Tippet

Tippet selection seems to vary as personalities out on the steelhead tributaries. For dead-drift techniques in higher, stained flows the conditions allow you to use a tippet that is heavier in strength as well as stiffer and more abrasion resistant like Dai-Riki GTS copolymer monofilament nylon or Maxima Ultra Green. The result is a definite advantage in landing more and bigger steelhead. In lower, clear flows using a thin diameter tippet that is more supple like Orvis Super Strong mono will get you more hook-ups but at a lower landed percentage due to a loss of strength and abrasion resistance in the material.

Color is another consideration with green cast monofilaments such as Maxima Ultra Green or Damyl Tectan Premium Plus (which is sold as a fishing line) easily blending into the olive-green clay tinted flows of the Lake Erie tributaries and black Maxima Chameleon mono ideal for the darker cast flows of the Salmon River in New York.

Most of the new generation fluorocarbon tippet materials can be rather pricey and include Umpqua Super Fluoro, Rio Fluorflex and Grand Max Seaguar. These materials are nearly invisible in the water and are great for dead-drifting flies in super-clear conditions. They also have excellent knot and breaking strength, are more supple than earlier fluorocarbons, have improved abrasion resistance, excellent UV protection for longer life (particularly the Umpqua) and sink quicker than regular monofilament nylons. Orvis, Climax and Dai-Riki make fluorocarbons that are somewhat more economical with good properties also.

Gamma Technologies makes a next generation fluorocarbon material called Frog Hair FC that is not only supple but also has great stretch and shock resistance properties that are ideal for playing surging and running steelhead. They also offer an innovative knotless fluorocarbon Great Lakes Steelhead leader that incorporates light, long fluorocarbon tippets for dead-drift fishing.

Some frugal steelhead fly fisherman buy fluorocarbon marketed toward spin and bait fisherman such as P Line Fluorocarbon or Seaguar CarbonPro which are sold in large filler spools. They claim the quality is generally good (versus fluorocarbon tippet materials) with some loss of suppleness/breaking strength versus diameter. There are also fewer size selections (in terms of pound test) but the steelhead don’t seem to mind
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More detailed information on leaders for Great Lakes steelhead can be found in John Nagy's book "Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead".

Friday, December 18, 2009

Winter Steelheading Tips by John Nagy

Lone winter steelheader enjoying solitude on a Lake Erie steelhead tributary

Winter steelhead fishing provides the fly fisher with great opportunities to catch some of the biggest steelhead of the season
Hard-core steelheaders live for this time of the year; but be prepared for lake- effect snow, tributary slush flows and shelf ice, numb fingers with an added bonus of solitude
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-When tributary temperatures drop into the mid to low 30's steelheader's need not hit their favorite steelhead hole at the crack of dawn. Better to sleep in and try from late morning to early afternoon when water temperatures have nudged up enough to activate lethargic steelhead into biting (morning surface slush flows are usually also melted by then). Don't worry about the crowds; solitude is the norm in winter steelheading.
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-Dead-drifting flies like egg patterns and bead-head nymphs as well as small wooly buggers and streamers are deadly in the ice water tributary flows of winter as long as you keep them near the stream bottom (where winter steelhead hold), drifting at or slightly slower than the bottom water current. Incorporating brass, tungsten or glass beads as well as wire ribbing and heavier shanked hooks into these patterns ensures that they stay near the bottom and allows for less shot usage.

-Winter steelhead can be very finicky and fussy and prefer smaller, dead-drifted flies drifted literally into their face. They will rarely move more than a couple of inches for a fly on a dead-drift. With this said, it is extremely important to perform multiple drift presentations and cover the drift completely, whether a run, pool tail-out or back-eddy. The difference of a few inches in your presentation can result in a hook-up that you would have otherwise missed.


-Successful winter steelheading means patience. Multiple presentations covering the entire drift, precise indicator depth adjustment, tippet (length/size) and shot adjustments, fly changes (size/color) are all part of the game to get that perfect drift to steelhead that at times seem to have a severe case of lock-jaw!


-Dress properly for the frigid conditions (knit cap, wool fingerless gloves and mitts, thermal underwear, fleece jacket, windbreaker, chemical hand warmers, neoprene style/boot foot waders) and periodically walk between holes and runs to keep feet and hands warm for the fishing action.


-During a severe winter cold snap, steelhead will forgo overhead cover and hold in slower pools and runs that have moderate depth (4 feet or less) and dark bottoms. These locations (you have to fish them before they freeze over or break the ice and come back later) energize and activate steelhead since sunlight penetration warms the stream bottom as well as the backs of the steelhead. During milder winter periods look for steelhead to hold in more deeper bend pools, pool tail-outs, pool back eddies and runs as well as faster/broken water areas which all provide good cover from predators and direct sunlight without “super-chilling” the steelhead.
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This buck winter steelhead could not resist a bead-head scrambled eggs!

-Accidentally dunking your fly reel in the water is a “no-no” for the winter steelheader. The reel can quickly freeze-up and bind in sub-freezing air temperatures. Your windshield heater blower comes in handy to quickly thaw/dry frozen reels (although a complete drying will be required later to remove all the water in the reel).

-Felt bottom wading boots can quickly build up with snow making hiking along your favorite tributary difficult. Companies like Korkers, Simms and Patagonia offer rubber soled wading boots that are ideal for hiking in the snow without snow buildup. The Korker and Simms models also come studded.


-The tip top on your fly rod is the first guide to freeze over in sub-freezing air temperatures making fly casting, performing techniques and playing fish difficult and at times impossible. Remedies for this include installing an over-size tip top and over-size snake guides on your custom made fly rod (the John Nagy “noodle” fly rod has these built-in/see photo above) and applying Vaseline lip balm or Stanley ice off paste to the tip top and snake guides periodically throughout the day to prevent/slow down freeze-up.


-Fly fishing in the winter is tough on fly lines particularly when you cast them through iced over guides on your fly rod which can damage the exterior coating of the fly line. At some point this is going to happen no matter how diligent you are at keeping ice off the guides. A good strategy is to have a fly line strictly for sub-freezing conditions and keep your good lines for other times (fall and spring).

-Swinging flies in frigid tributary winter flows (30 degree range) can be successful as long as you keep your fly on the bottom (use the fastest sinking leader or sink tip you have without dragging bottom on the swing) and slow down the swimming speed of your fly (by doing multiple upstream mends of your fly line on the swing). Also use fly patterns like zonkers, marabou speys, long winged streamers, wooly buggers and sculpins that incorporate materials like marabou, artic fox tail, rabbit strip fur, temple dog fur, schlappen feathers, etc. that have great movement in the current flow.

Adding beads, cones or using metal tube designs will help keep these flies on the bottom. Adding fluorescent color(s) or a little flash material to the pattern can entice strikes. Swing them through pool tail-outs, eddies and slower/deep runs (of course you will need open water areas!). Jigging the fly or using a strip retrieve at the end of the swing can also be effective. Again, a few degree temperature increase during the day (usually occurring from mid-day to early afternoon) can activate steelhead into taking a fly.

-Run-off from winter snow-melt usually runs clear (typically a slow, steady melt) as long as night time air temperatures stay below the freezing mark. Rain and rising air temperatures though can quickly melt snow cover and result in high/stained tributary conditions.

-A common strategy for winter steelheaders is to break the ice in a pool that is partially iced over (using their feet and/or downed tree branches), letting it rest for awhile and then coming back later to fish it. Surprisingly the steelhead settle down pretty quickly after all the commotion. Dead-drifted flies are particularly effective after this tactic. This is a relatively easy thing to do when the ice cover is thinner (and in pools that can be waded) but with really thick ice it is not advisabe unless your looking for a sprained or even broken ankle!

-It is hard to predict what kind of tributary conditions ice water steelheaders will encounter on the Lake Erie tributaries during the winter. During mild winters, they remain open (including the lake shore) with only nuisance slush and ice flows in the morning.

Severe winters usually mean complete freeze-over (including the lake shore) in January and February. This is not a total loss since steelhead fishing through the ice (at the tributary mouths, marinas and lake shore) can produce some incredible action; albeit not fly fishing style. (It is pretty difficult fly casting your fly into a 8" hole cut through the ice!)

During a more average climatic winter, expect periodic tributary freeze-overs with both a traditional "January" thaw and also a number of "mini-thaws" opening up the tributary flows to fishing.

Note: Often the toughest part of winter steelhead fishing is actually getting to (and traveling back) from the Lake Erie tributaries. Local steelheaders definitely have an advantage here. Anyone considering steelhead fishing this time of the year (and traveling at a distance) should carefully monitor the weather for lake effect snow and ice conditions as they impact the interstates and state routes. No steelhead is worth being stranded on the highway or getting into an accident for. Look for "windows" in the weather for traveling to and from the tribs. If bad weather hits (after a day of winter steelheading) seriously consider spending the night at a local motel to avoid any problems.

More detailed information on winter steelheading can be found in John Nagy's book "Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead".

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Steelhead Technique, Equipment and Fly Selection by John Nagy

Hen steelie that took a Black and Blue Stonefly nymph on a dead-drift

Having fished for steelhead in both the tributaries of the Great Lakes and the coastal rivers of British Columbia I have learned to adapt my technique, equipment and fly selection to the river size, specific water type and water conditions being fished
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Matching River Conditions with the Right Technique, Equipment and Flies
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On the Kispiox River in British Columbia (especially when the water turns cold in early to mid-October), I predominantly swing flies with sink tips, in a “down-and-across” fashion, in the large classic pools and runs that the river is known for. Also, during warmer water conditions of September, I will use a floating line and lightly dressed wet flies swung within a foot of the water surface or skate dry flies on the surface to rising steelhead.
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But when I encounter small slots, narrow deep holes, ledges, and pocket water on the Kispiox (that are easily waded to), I quickly switch to techniques and flies that are more commonly used in the Great Lakes; more specifically, short-line-bottom-bouncing or the right-angle-floating-indicator-technique with egg patterns and bead-head nymphs.
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Both these techniques are ideal for getting a fly dead-drifting on the bottom in a very specific area, which would be difficult to reach with a more traditional approach like swinging a fly.
In the Great Lakes (and particularly on the Lake Erie tributaries) similar opportunities present themselves, except short-line nymphing techniques far outweigh the traditional fly swinging opportunities due to the rather small size (and holding areas) of many of these streams. Also, during the course of a long steelhead season in the Great Lakes, the majority of the time these tributaries run cold (at or below 40 degrees F) which are ideal conditions for lethargic steelies to key in on dead-drifted flies.

The typical scenario (whether on a British Columbia river or a Great Lakes tributary) is not only to carry a selection of steelhead flies but also as least two fly rod set-ups: a long, limber (6 or 7 weight), high-stick nymphing rod for dead-drifting eggs and nymphs and a stiffer, heavier line weight rod (7 or 8 weight, single handed or switch/small double-handed rod) for swinging flies.
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Having two rod set-ups (as opposed to one rod) allows the steelheader to more quickly and effectively fish various types of water as it is presented to him whether walk-in wade fishing or on a float trip. The nymphing rod is rigged with a floating Wulff triangle taper fly line and a long leader (the progressive action John Nagy "noodle" fly rod is ideal for this) and the stiffer action swinging rod is rigged with a muti-tip floating fly line and a short leader.
Line selection includes a Versi-tip line for single-handed rods and a shooting line/Skagit line for switch/double-handed rods (with various sink tips of different sink rates including full tip, sinking leader or custom made mini-tips). Using the “loop-to-loop” system, these sink tips can be swapped out (depending on the water being fished) without changing the fly line.
Note: To save time I actually carry two “pre-rigged swing rods” with me on the river (along with my nymphing rod) for personal and guided trips. One rigged with a medium sink tip for slower runs and pool tail-outs and the other with a faster tip for fast runs, pools and pocket water. This is obviously more easily done on float trips versus a walk-in trip. I started doing this after meeting an older gentleman in BC who rigged three spey rods up in his drift boat, each with a different sink tip. As he drifted down the river he would pick the rod with the right sink tip for the water being fished.
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Dead-Drifted Flies
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Egg patterns will always be effective for catching Great Lakes steelhead because steelhead (a sub-species of the rainbow trout) inherently eat fish eggs. Since fish eggs are typically bright in coloration, you want to obviously match that in your egg patterns. Large, bright egg flies (size 10 to 16) in chartreuse, orange, pink and red work well in stained water flows. As water conditions improve and clear up, smaller egg patterns (size 18 to 14) in more subdued tones or pastels like creams, light oranges, light pinks, etc. are the ticket.
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Metal or glass beads should be added to egg patterns to help them sink, especially those made with materials that have some buoyancy like Glo Bug Yarn. Effective egg patterns include the Cook Angel Hair Sucker Spawn, Letera Synergy Spawn, Scrambled Eggs, Glo Balls, Crystal Meths, Nagy Half-n-Half, Nuclear Roe Bugs and Blood Dots.
Lake Erie steelhead really key in on nymphs, especially in lower, cleaner flows. A brass, tungsten, or glass bead will help get them consistently down and drifting naturally along the bottom in a variety of run-off conditions. Brass or copper ribbing as well as lead under-wrappings will help nymphs sink quicker, thereby requiring less shot to be used. Thinner profile nymphs will also sink faster than bulkier patterns, which is a definite advantage in faster stream flows.
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Simple, general-purpose nymphs in black, gold, white, and natural are very effective for steelhead. Adding some type of flash material (and bright color) to their wing case, ribbing, or tail will make them more detectable by steelhead in stained water. Some specific nymph patterns that are hot for steelies include the Prince nymph (including the flash version aka “the fly formerly known as prince”), Brugger Orange Flash Pheasant Tail, DeFrank Blue Steel, Rubber Legged Copper John, Nagy Black and Blue Stonefly and Steelie Rock Worm, Yerger Miracle Nymph, 60 Second Stone, Letera Luminus Maximus and Vidmar Woven Caddis.
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An effective technique is to fish an egg fly (top fly) in tandem with a bead-head nymph (bottom fly). The egg pattern acts as an attractor (especially in stained water) with the nymph as a teaser. If the steelie doesn’t take the egg they will usually take the smaller, more buggy looking nymph which is nearby. The more closely you keep the flies together on the leader the more effectively the tandem fly technique works. You can also use a streamer as a dropper in this technique.
Swung Flies
When tributary water temperatures are over 40 degrees F (in the fall and early spring) steelhead are very eager to take actively fished flies, especially on the downstream swing. Flies that impart the slightest movement and undulation in the water can prove irresistible to steelhead that are holding in faster current flows. Leeches, Wooly Buggers, spey and tube flies, soft hackles and traditional steelhead wet patterns can induce explosive strikes which are far from the soft takes that are characteristic of dead-drifted nymphs and egg patterns during the late fall and winter.
Post-spawn steelies are particularly fond of any baitfish imitation fished during their “drop-down” mode to the lake. The vigor of spawning gives these slimmed-down steelies voracious appetites and they will strike streamer patterns with seeming abandon.
Effective flies for swinging techniques include the Guida Mirrored Minnow, Darkes Funny Bunny Emerald Shiner, The Weamer, Chandler Pink Matuka Spey, German’s White Nightmare, Ken’s Beady Zonker, Nagy Lake Erie Rainbow Smelt and Lite Brite Intruder tube flies and DiBennedetto Mini Steel tube fly.
More detailed information on Great Lakes steelhead techniques, equipment and flies (including many of the fly patterns mentioned in this article) can be found in John Nagy’s book “Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead”.