John Nagy Steelhead Guide Book now available as eBook!

John Nagy’s Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead (Updated and Expanded 4th edition) is now available in the Amazon Kindle eBook version. It is readable on a Kindle reading device and also any other device (phone, tablet, computer) by downloading a free Kindle app from Amazon.

Please click on the following link to purchase Steelhead Guide eBook and access free Kindle app download:

Steelhead Guide eBook

The printed version of the Steelhead Guide Book is still available at the right menu bar!


Tube Flies for Great Lakes Steelhead (Part II) by John Nagy

John Nagy Tear Drop Spey Tube Flies with added Nagy Baitfish Eyes rear connector
Many Great Lakes steelheaders have seen the popularity of tube flies grow over the years but have been reluctant to give them a try. This is a shame, because tube fly systems are especially effective when used to replace the large/long shanked streamer hooks typically used in steelhead streamer, wooly bugger, leech and baitfish patterns and are even useful in steelhead nymph, wet and egg patterns                                                                           
In recent years, some Great Lakes steelhead tube tyers have incorporated West Coast Intruder designs, Scandinavian Temple Dog styles and even traditional spey and salmon flies into their tube flies. These new tube fly patterns have proven to be killer for steelheader’s chasing chrome in the Great Lakes (including tributary brown trout, salmon and smallmouth)

The following is Part II of John Nagy's three part series on Tube Flies for Great Lakes Steelhead.
 (See Part I of the series in the right menu bar).

Metal Tubing

For getting tube flies down in faster, deeper flows, cylindrical metal tubing has always been popular. Various lengths of metal tubing and types (weight), including copper, brass, stainless steel and aluminum allow for a degree of sink rate control depending on the water being fished. They typically incorporate an inner plastic “liner” to deter leader abrasion.

 Using long sections of heavy metal tubing (like copper, brass and stainless steel) can be problematic though in a number of ways. These include unnatural swimming action and “hang-down” (rear tilt) of the fly on the swing, difficulty in casting and limited fishability of fly (in slower flows) due to weight. Bulky/unsightly finished tying heads as well as awkward wing angles (which are unavoidable when tying on large diameter metal tubing) are also common with straight metal tubing.

Metal tubing rear hang-down can be remedied to a certain extent by using a heavy conehead at the head of the tube fly (which has a balancing effect). The issue with this design though is its total mass (heavy tubing and conehead) which has the effect of further deadening the lively action of the fly on the swing.

Getting Down and Maintaining Natural Fly Action 

Plastic tubing is obviously lighter than metal tubing and actually has a “buoyant” effect in the water. This lightness and buoyancy is an asset though, because it can make a tube fly swim much more naturally in the water versus a heavy cylindrical tube design.
Actually light plastic tubing can be fished effectively in most water types (except for the super fast/deeper flows). The caveat is to rely on a sinking system (such as a sinking leader or fly line sink tip) for getting it down in the current.

 A small added weight to plastic tubing such as a light conehead is recommended for leader turn-over on the forward cast with plastic bodied tube flies. The addition of a conehead and compact metal tube “weight” or metal “bottle” tube (see bottle tubes below) also allows for precise fly balance and weight control when constructing tube flies with plastic tubes.

Getting Down into Steelhead Lies

Tube flies constructed with light plastic tubes (and a small added weight) or made with an aluminum tube body will swing at the same level as your sink tip or sinking leader. These tube types ideal for swinging flies through long runs and riffles as well as large pools with broad tail-outs that have even stream bottoms where it is not required to “drop down” quickly into a steelhead lie. Typically with these lies current speeds are of the moderate to slow type.
 Steelhead lies located below sharp drop-off’s and in narrow slots and in deeper, super fast runs are best reached with copper tubing. But as discussed earlier the heavy mass of this tubing can negatively effect natural fly action and are difficult to cast.
 Brass seems to be the best material in terms of weight (and castability) to get down into most fast current steelhead lies without compromising fly action too much. Although it is recommended to keep the leader more on the long side when using brass bodied tube flies to keep the sink tip from raking the stream bottom and “hanging-up” on the swing.

Bottle Tubes

Metal “bottle” tubes were designed to address some of the inherent issues characteristic with cylindrical metal tubing. The first bottle tube was machined by The Fly Company in Denmark. It was called the Morrum Bottle Tube (named after the salmon and sea trout river in Sweden), was shaped like its namesake and was much shorter than cylindrical metal tube designs.
The Morrum Bottle Tube concentrated weight slightly to the rear of the fly, giving the tube fly better balance and a natural action and movement to the fly on the swing. The conical front end also made for a pleasing wing shape and angle and somewhat small tying head. They were made in made both brass and aluminum versions. Loop, Bidoz and Stonfo quickly followed with their own bottle shaped metal tubes.

Like cylindrical metal tubing, bottle tubes incorporate an inner plastic liner tube for line abrasion protection. The small diameter of the “collar” portion of a bottle tube allows for smaller finished heads versus tying on straight tubing. A short section of “junction” tubing facilitates hook connection to the rear of the bottle tube.

Depending on the design, metal bottle tubes can have a number of built in features including:

-Tapered in the front for “angled” wing support
-Weight forward design to level the fly on the swing
-Front “lip” for finishing the fly head
-Built in grooves that are used for material “tying points”
-Rear “slots” that can be painted as a body accent
-Can be extremely compact (especially when made of tungsten) for fast sinking.
-“Compact” bottle tubes can also be easily concealed in dubbed and wrapped tube bodies.

Hybrid Bottle Tubes

Over the years the standard bottle tube were tweaked and modified into various “hybrid” bottle tube shapes including the Shumakov ½- incher, Eumer Teardrop, Canadian Tube Fly Company Nubby Tube, Wurm Tungsten Bottle Tube, Foxy Tails Compact Tubes, Skeena Shrimp Tube and the Futurefly IC Tube.
Metal hybrid bottle tubes combine the excellent sinking ability of cylindrical metal tubing and the lively action inherent with plastic tubing into one design. They are typically made of brass, aluminum and tungsten for sink rate control as well as in painted colors (including bright neon’s) and metallic finishes. They characteristically use extended sections of the rigid plastic liner for tying the tube fly itself (in front of the metal bottle tube).
This design innovation allows for even smaller finishing heads and slimmer tube fly bodies, which results in not only aesthetically pleasing finished heads but tube flies that can sink faster in a river flow.
Many bottle tubes (including hybrids) can accept rigid plastic tubing in the rear of the bottle tube via a machined body ridge or ridges. The hook is then inserted directly into the rear of the rigid plastic tubing. This allows the option of tying a tube body on the rear plastic tube or using the exposed colored tubing “stand alone” (they come in a numerous colors, including neon’s, flecked and glow-in-the-dark varieties) to act as a rear attractant tube body itself.
 Rear tubing length also allows for flexibility in rear hook placement which is ideal for long streamer and baitfish type style patterns (although some steelheaders like to use a “free-swinging” hook in long winged patterns to prevent hook entanglement).

John Nagy's Jiffy Tube Baitifish Tube Flies are quick to tie and use Canadian Tube Fly Company's "Nubby Tube" hybrid bottle tube and stiff plastic tube liner
Buildable Systems

The rage these days in the tube fly world are “buildable” systems which offer a variety of tube fly components. These including standard metal and plastic tubing, coneheads and junction tubing as well as more innovative/unique stuff like hybrid bottle tubes, “two” dimensional plastic tubing, flexible/colored plastic tubing, hard plastic liner tubing, tapered junction tubing, glow-in-the-dark tubing, “needle” tubes, modified coneheads, spinner blades, propellers, tube beads and tube weighing components.
These systems lend themselves well to the beginning tube tyer, readily being adapted into various already proven patterns. They also encourage a great deal of creativity for experienced tube tyers (“mixing and matching” is possible but some systems are “proprietary”) in developing new tube fly patterns and designs as well as optimizing fly performance.

Check back again with John Nagy’s Steelheader’s Journal for Part III  of Tube Flies for Great Lakes Steelhead by John Nagy. Article will include list of tube fly component manufacturer’s and sources of tube fly components in the USA and internationally as well as a discussion on tube fly system interchangeability.

More detailed information on tube flies for Great Lakes Steelhead (including over 28 hot tube fly patterns) can be found in John Nagy's classic book "Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead". His "Steelheader's Journal" makes a great companion book to the Steelhead Guide and is now available.


Spring Steelies by John Nagy

Blue bells and spring steelhead fishing on an Ohio steelhead tributary

Fly fishing the Lake Erie tributary streams in the spring is in a lot of ways a paradox of the winter steelhead season. To begin with, stream temperatures are pushed from the frigid low 30’s into the 40 degree F plus range. This causes sluggish steelhead already in the streams to become more active and aggressive

Rising air temperatures and spring rains melt winter snow cover and stream ice resulting in higher flows. This, in turn, brings fresh runs of steelhead in from Lake Erie

Steelhead Spawning Behavior 

Steelhead begin moving from their winter locations (deep, slow moving pools and eddies) to shallow, gravel spawning areas fulfilling their strong reproductive urges. This usually occurs in late February and continues through April. Scientists have determined that this spawning behavior is triggered by a combination of two factors: stream temperatures (40 degrees F or above) and increasing "photo periods" or periods of light versus dark.

Locating spawning areas or "spawning beds" can result in some fantastic (and controversial) steelhead fly fishing during this time of the year. This is not only true for spawning steelhead on their beds but also pre-spawn and "spawned-out" fish located nearby and "drop-back" steelies heading back to the lake.

Ideal spawning beds are basically riffles, which have large-size diameter gravel, are 1-4 feet deep, and have darker color bottoms. Next to these areas are usually deeper runs, pockets, or pools which harbor pre-spawn and post spawn fish, as well as fish that have been spooked off their beds.

Actual spawning involves a female steelhead moving into a spawning area and digging out a "redd". She will do this by turning on her side and making powerful upsweeps of her tail in the gravel. The current washes away loose gravel until a saucer shaped hole has formed which will hold her eggs. Males will be attracted by this activity and begin competing for spawning rights, with the largest and most heavily kyped males winning out. They will use their superior power and large kypes (which are grown for this purpose) to drive inferior males from the redd.

 After the female drops her eggs, about 20 % of what she is carrying, the dominant male will fertilize them (sometimes one, or possible two, sub-dominant male will also participate), and the female moves immediately upstream to begin making another redd. The displaced gravel from this redd covers the previously fertilized eggs downstream. The female will continue this process until she is spawned out.

Fly Fishing Strategies

When you are fly fishing a spawning bed there are several things to keep in mind. If you don’t notice any spawning activity on the bed itself, blind fish adjacent deep-holding areas. As previously stated, these areas can hold steelies that are not in a spawning mode.

Fishing on the beds themselves has a simple strategy; fish for the males. They will be easy to distinguish from the females since they appear almost black while the females are bright silver. If you catch the female first, the males will quickly scatter. These aggressive males become very territorial and are not actually feeding, but will chase flies to dominate a redd.

Before fishing, position yourself slightly upstream of a redd and cast your fly so it reaches stream bottom as it drifts through. Mend your line to maintain a dead-drift and keep a tight line so you are able to quickly set the hook. Try to visually follow your fly through the redd so that you target the males and react quickly to their takes.

More often than not you won’t be able to see spawning fish very well on the bed. This is usually the result of spring run-off, which causes high, turbid water, or a spawning bed with a dark bottom. The dead giveaway though is the female as she turns on her side; the tail shakes giving flashes of silver, or gold in muddy water. Wearing polarized sunglasses on bright days is a tremendous help in seeing these flashes. Mentally mark this spot in the stream and fish to areas just downstream where the males will be holding.

Another effective strategy (again positioned upstream of a redd) is to swing a streamer or baitfish pattern across the redd in front of a targeted steelhead (literally just "nipping" but not touching the nose of the fish). This tantalizing presentation can surprisingly invoke some ferocious strikes. Sometimes just "hanging" the fly (not moving) just in front of a spawning steelhead can also trigger a strike.

The above techniques are obviously not intentional snagging methods but precise "fair hook" presentations especially when watching both your fly and the take of a targeted steelhead. Yes, unintentional snagging can occur on the redds but this usually occurs with "sloppy" presentations by inexperienced steelheader's. To decide whether you elect to fish the redds for steelhead at all (some steelheader's have understandably strong objections to this practice) please see ethics discussion below.

Flies and Equipment 

Effective fly patterns for spring steelhead include yellow, white, and black Wooly Buggers, bright egg patterns (glo-balls, sucker spawns, scrambled eggs and blood dots), various streamer patterns like the Lake Erie Emerald Shiner and Clouser Minnow, Wooly Buggers, Spring Wigglers and bead-head nymphs (prince’s, black stoneflies and green caddis larvae).

Fly rods in the 9 to 10 foot range with medium to medium-fast actions are ideal for fishing egg patterns, nymphs as well as wooly buggers and streamers. Longer 10 ½ foot fly rods (custom made from "noodle" spinning blanks) provide superior line and leader control when trying to achieve drag-free drifts. They also allow for big fish playing capabilities on light tippets due to their soft actions and shock absorbing abilities.

A floating fly line, like the Wulff Triangle Taper, works well on the spawning beds particularly when fly casting at a relatively short distance (30 ft. or less). They have the delicacy of a double taper at short distances, which makes line mending rather easy, and at the same time provide the power of a weight forward to turn over split shot and floating indicators. This is due to their unique triangle taper configuration, which concentrates the bulk of the heavy part of the taper (which can interfere with drag-free drifts) away from the butt of the leader.

Leaders should be kept relatively short (9-10 feet) when fishing the beds. This allows for close in casting in relatively shallow water. In adjacent runs and pools (which are deeper) longer leaders up to 12 to 14 feet work better especially when using a floating indicator. Adding a florescent red section of Sunset Amnesia monofilament to the butt section of the leader is a good way to build a strike indicator into your leader especially when you are not using a float.


Fly fishing steelhead spawning beds seems to have its proponents and detractors. In the Pacific Northwest this practice is strongly discouraged on rivers with wild steelhead feeling it is very detrimental to successful spawning. On the other hand Michigan steelheaders seem to have no problem with fishing on the beds even though 50 % of their fish are known to be naturally reproduced.

The American tributaries of Lake Erie produce a small number of naturally reproduced steelhead (the runs are primarily based on hatchery raised steelhead smolts and fingerlings) so fishing the beds does not have much of an impact on future steelhead runs. An exception are some Western NY Lake Erie tributaries (including Chautauqua and Cattaraugus Creeks which have been documented to have as much as 25% naturally reproduced steelhead). On these tributaries it is not recommended to fish the beds in the spring to protect a developing wild steelhead fishery (several feeders to Cattaraugus Creek are actually closed to fishing in the spring in order protect wild steelhead natural reproduction).

The Canadian tributaries of Lake Erie (Ontario Province) are almost entirely based on naturally reproduced steelhead runs with most tributaries closed in the winter and early spring to fishing.

If you do choose to fish spawning beds in the spring (where legal), land and release steelhead quickly, keep fish in water at all times, keep handling to a minimum and be sure not to wade on known spawning gravel.

Many steelheader's who frown on fishing steelhead spawning beds (including rookie steelheader's who lack presentation skill), prefer to target only pre-spawn, post-spawn and drop-back steelhead in order to protect both established and developing wild steelhead fisheries.

More detailed information on spring steelhead fly fishing can be found in John Nagy’s classic book 
“Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead”.
John Nagy's "Steelheader's Journal" also makes a great companion book to the Steelhead Guide book.


Swinging Flies for Steelhead by John Nagy

Spring steelheader swinging flies on an Ohio Lake Erie tributary stream

Dead-drift presentations like bottom-bouncing or floating indicating will always be the mainstay for catching steelhead on most Great Lakes tributary rivers and streams. The reason for this is that the tributaries mostly run cold over the course of a steelhead fishing season (late fall through late winter). 

These cold flows (40 degrees F and below) slow down the metabolism of a steelhead making it somewhat lethargic. They typically become finicky, keying in on small egg patterns and bead-head nymphs dead-drifted on or near the stream bottom

A great compliment to this approach is swinging flies for steelhead in the traditional down-and-across manner. Under certain water conditions and river characteristics this technique can be extremely effective with an excitement factor that can shake even the seasoned steelheader!

Traditional swinging techniques were originally developed to catch Atlantic salmon in Northern Europe and the Atlantic Canadian Provinces becoming popular for steelhead in the Pacific Northwest during the 20th century. In recent years, it has developed an enthusiastic following by a growing group of steelheaders in the Great Lakes region.

In the warmer tributary flows of fall and spring (above 40 degrees F) steelhead are more aggressive and will actively move for wooly buggers, streamers, leeches, tube and spey flies on the swing. They actually will “look up” to take a fly swinging fly (above 50 degrees F) and will even chase dry flies “skated” on the surface.

Steelhead caught on swung flies are often referred to as “players” due to their willingness to chase a fly and hit it extremely hard on the swing (some steelheaders have described the take like being mugged on the stream!). This is in marked contrast with dead-drift caught fish, which are generally less aggressive and have a much softer take.

Swing Technique

Before beginning your swing technique, first wade into position (usually toward the middle of the river) and look at the water surface texture to locate current breaks at the head of pools, along parallel “seams” that run through pools and runs and also in pool tail-outs. Steelhead use these breaks as resting areas on their upstream migratory movements and you will want to concentrate on swinging your fly through these areas.

Try standing almost directly upstream to the area you want to swing your fly through (the “target zone”) and begin by casting your fly line at a 45 degree angle downstream to the left or right of the target zone. For a single handed cast (with a sinking leader or sink tip line) using a single or double-haul, followed by shooting the line, makes this easy. A traditional spey or double handed casting approach will allow the steelheader to stand much closer to the river bank and effectiveily reach most target zones.

A fly line with a floating/weight-forward taper design (including steelhead and "switch" taper fly line tapers and the very popular "Skagit" head tapers including the new OPST Skagit Commando lines) is the best fly line for this type of cast. The heavy taper of this line casts sinking leaders and sink tips well while the floating component allows for easy mending when swinging the line.

As the fly line makes contact with the water, immediately throw an upstream mend in the fly line. This will help sink both the fly line and the fly more quickly. Follow up by dropping the rod tip and move it across in front of you, stopping at the point where you want the fly to swing to.

You will notice that a downstream “belly” will form in the fly line as the fly line swings down-and-across. The size of the belly will determine the “swimming speed” of the fly as it swings across in the current. Multiple mends of the fly line eliminates or reduces the fly line belly size, slows the speed of the fly and makes the fly sink deeper. By minimizing line mending you can keep the fly line belly large, causing higher fly speeds on the swing but with higher fly position in the water column.

The tributary water temperature will determine at what level you need to get the fly to on the swing. In warmer flows (above 50 degrees F), steelhead tend to look up more for a fly, so one or no mends are all that are usually needed. In colder flows (below 50 degrees), steelhead tend to keep tighter to the stream bottom and prefer slower fly speeds. These conditions will require at least 1 or 2 mends to get the fly down.

In really cold flows (less than 40 degrees), multiple follow-up mends are needed to initiate strikes from sluggish steelhead. Making an initial cast greater than 45 degrees is also helpful to get flies down to bottom hugging fish.

Fly Depth on the Swing

Fly depth on the swing is also controlled by the sinking system used in the fly line. By using sink tips of different lengths and sink rates (measured in inches per second or grain weight) for the water flow and depth being fished, you can precisely control the depth of the fly. This is analogous to changing split-shot when dead-drifting.

For smaller tributaries, as well as medium to low tributary flows, custom mini-tips (made out of 2 to 6 feet lengths of sinking shooting head material) and sinking leaders (7 to 12 feet) work well. For big tributaries and high run-off conditions standard sink tip lines (as long as 15 feet) work better. Deep, strong currents on big water may call for 24 foot sink tips or “heads” (which are available in 150-600 grains).

Interlocking loop systems allows these leaders and tips to be easily interchanged on the stream depending on the water flow and depth encountered. Several fly line manufacturers sell fly lines that come with an assortment of interchangeable sink tips (of different sink rates) that cover most water conditions encountered.

Density compensated sinking leaders and sink tips (which have a tapered design) compensate for the thinner diameter front section by adding a denser sinking material to the front portion of the leader or tip. This keeps the leader or tip sinking in a straight line (tip sinks at the same speed as the body) resulting in less line hang-ups on the stream bottom, better strike detection and faster hook-ups.

Along with the sinking system, leader length also plays a key role in fly depth. Leaders in the 4 to 9 foot range will keep the fly higher up in the current flow versus a shorter leader (less than 4 feet) which is ideal for keeping the fly down close to the stream bottom when steelhead are moving less for a fly.

Fly depth can be fine tuned by crimping a small amount of shot to the leader or adding various size brass or tungsten beads to the leader. The beads will slide down to the front of the fly during casting and on the swing.

When trying to get the fly down deep on the swing it is best to rely on your sinking system versus using a heavily weighted fly. Keeping the fly as light as possible will allow the fly to have a lively and natural swimming action on the swing. Flies that are too light (like plastic tube body flies) need some weight added to them (like a light conehead) for proper leader turnover.

To methodically cover a pool or run after the initial swing is made with the fly, lengthen subsequent casts in increments of a foot or so until you have satisfactorily covered a desired section of water. Next, take a few steps downstream and begin the entire sequence again.

The Take on the Swing

Most steelhead take the fly at the end of the swing (more likely chasing the fly across the current and hitting it from the side or rear as it stops) so it is important to anticipate the strike at that point. At the end of the swing, hold the fly directly downstream of you in the current and then follow-up with a strip retrieve. This can induce strikes especially with large streamer, leech and wooly bugger type patterns which provide a lot of movement in the current flow.

The Traditional Swing Experience

The traditional swing presentation allows the steelheader to see the river in a larger view, both downstream and bank-to-bank, as he fishes. It is quite a different experience versus the more localized and focused dead-drift method. You become more in-tuned with the larger flow of the river. The casts and mends of your fly line become intimately intertwined with long runs, riffles and pool tail-out’s as you methodically swing your fly through likely steelhead lies.

This slower, more patient approach often rudely becomes interrupted with the jarring take of an aggressive and hard-hitting steelhead which is hell bent on taking your fly (and fly rod) back to Lake Erie!

For more detailed information on swinging flies for Great Lakes steelhead refer to John Nagy’s classic book Steelhead Guide, Fly Fishing Techniques and Strategies for Lake Erie Steelhead (Updated and Expanded 4th Edition) which is available in both soft cover and hard cover editions (signed/including a fly tied by author). John Nagy’s newly released Steelheader’s Journal makes a great companion book to his Steelhead Guide. Both books are available through Great Lakes Publishing. See right menu bar for ordering information.

 John Nagy also offers Solitude Fly Reels (the "guides" reel) and the John Nagy custom made "Noodle" Fly Rod (which has gotten rave reveiws!). See right menu bar for ordering information on those products as well.


John Nagy Custom "Hot Butt" Leader and Indy Kit

This 10 foot, hand tied (by John Nagy), knotted leader is ideal for high-stick nymphing whether bottom-bouncing or using the "right-angle-floating-indicator technique". The design of this leader is identical to the leader formula found in John Nagy's Steelhead Guide book.

Features of John Nagy "Hot Butt" Leader and Indy Kit:

-The "hot butt" section of the leader is constructed of fluorescent orange Sunset Amnesia which acts as a strike indicator when high-stick nymphing.

-The leader's mid-section is made of a hard nylon material (Maxima Chamelon) which is ideal for turning over weighted flies, split-shot and floating indicators.

-The tippet section of the leader consists of 36 inches of 3X Orvis Super Strong Plus. Super Strong Plus is very strong versus diameter (the strongest nylon on the market) and also very limp (yet abrasion resistant) making it ideal for delicate, drag-free drifts.

-The suppleness of the Super Strong Plus tippet section is critical in the "right-angle-floating-indicator-technique" (RAFIT).  It easily allows for a "right angle" to be formed at the point where the floating indicator is placed on the leader. Note: It is recommended to keep the tippet section knotless to allow for easy adjustment of floating indicator. Also, tippet section may need to be modified for deeper flows (longer) and clearer flows (lighter tippet diameter).

-Leader comes with an assortment of floating indicators (6) in various sizes for varying water conditions (low and clear to high and stained flows and everything in between). Remember it is crucial that you "suspend" the fly in the RAFIT (just above the stream bottom) during the drag-free drift. So you need substantial floating indicators (with the emphasis on floating) to achieve this.

-Works great also for stream trout nymphing.

For more details/discussion on Great Lakes steelhead leaders go to John Nagy's article on "Leaders for Steelhead" in the right menu bar.

The John Nagy Hot Butt Leader and Indy Kit retails for $29.95 + $4.00 s/h + $2.38 PA state sales tax (7%) if applicable.

If your interested in purchasing the John Nagy Hot Butt Leader and Indy Kit please pay Paypal account steelheadguide1@hotmail.com or mail check to:

Great Lakes Publishing
606 Crylser Street
Pittsburgh, Pa. 15226 

Contact John Nagy at (412) 531-5819 or steelheadguide@hotmail.com for information/questions on ordering the Hot Butt Leader and Indy Kit.